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Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Living in the Dominican can be Difícil...


So this past week has been a little more down that up you could say. There have been a couple unexpected deaths of family members of NPH kids and employees and a couple friends on site with some serious health problems. As Pili put it, one of the really tough things about living in the DR awhile is that you get really attached to people and you really come to understand how things work. Unfortunately, that means a ridiculously horrible health system that is accessible to only those who can pay which isn’t many. So people get sick and then sicker without getting in to see the doctor and are forced to self-diagnose at best. On the one hand, many Dominicans seem to have developed homemade remedies (the ideas for healing my burn ranged from putting coals on it to putting gasoline on it to boiling a coconut and putting that oil on it) but on the other hand, there are just some things that can’t be treated without ACTUAL medical care. And the difficult thing about coming from a place with a topnotch healthcare system (hello, I live an hour away from the Mayo Clinic and both of my sisters will be going to college for an eternity because they’re going into health professions) is that I know a lot of these deaths are unnecessary and entirely preventable.

Anyways, on Saturday morning, it was Santa Ana’s turn to go to the beach with the group of visitors from Boston. We took off bright and early around 8:00am and were having a great time. Around 11:00am, Anita stepped on a sea urchin and ended up with 5 spikes stuck inside her big toe. Thank goodness there was a doctor in the group and we began a mini-operation on the beach as Anita gripped my hand for dear life while crying her eyes out. Four spikes in (or rather out), someone from our group comes running across the beach with a phone call for me. As it turned out, the grandmother of one of the girls in my house had passed away…DANG! So between my tia and myself, we immediately got her out of the water, got the other girls distracted, and broke the news to her. Within minutes, her and I were hustling off the beach to make the half hour trip back to NPH, which felt much much longer this time…

The reason we needed to get back quickly was because when it comes to death everything here in the DR happens fast (which is odd considering that just about nothing else happens quickly here). When someone dies their body is immediately taken to the funeral home where there is a viewing for a few hours. There aren’t any flowers or gifts or donations, you just show up if you know the person. Your presence is what counts, not anything material. The funeral, procession to the cemetery, and actual burial sometimes happen the same day or the next day at the latest…there’s certainly no preservation process or refrigeration or anything along those lines to keep the body intact for longer. A very cultural aspect of this process that I experienced firsthand is that it’s the norm to be quite upset and emotionally expressive with this type of thing. I’m not talking just crying, like sobbing and wailing and falling over and throwing yourself on other people. This seems to happen throughout all parts of the process but most especially once at the cemetery. And this goes for men and women alike although I would definitely say the women partake more.

Anyways, after getting showered and dressed at rapid-fire speed, by shortly after 12:30pm, my girl, her siblings and I found ourselves at the local funeral parlor. It was quite an interesting setup: a big room full of rows of chairs like some sort of waiting room with 3 small rooms coming off of it. Each small room had a casket inside propped up on two piano benches and the walls were lined with chairs with probably enough room to seat 10 or 15 people at the most. With three different wakes happening at once, the place ended up being PACKED. We started off by entering the small room where the grandmother’s body was located and giving our condolences to the family members there (I had to ask Nelly what the appropriate condolence is…apparently it is “Te acompaño en el sentimiento”) We spent the rest of the afternoon going in and out of the room, talking to family members and just observing all of the people we were surrounded by. Being in the room was pretty intense emotionally, so it was nice to be able to go back and forth. Another side note: Dominican caskets have a little window at top where the head is that is covered in glass…so the caskets are always closed…no worries about what the dead person is wearing (again, very little focus on the material). It seemed a little creepy to me, but it’s just another way of doing things I suppose.

At 5:00pm, the actual funeral commenced which pretty much just consisted of a couple prayers and songs being sung around the casket. Next was the procession across town to the cemetery. We all piled onto the rented bus as the hearse slowly led the way for the few cars and many many motos. San Pedro has one big cemetery that I’ve visited a few times at this point. Nearly all of the graves are above ground…in fact, very few are below ground. However, this day, we proceeded to the very back corner of the cemetery where a big hole was dug. Two men jumped into it and lowered down the casket after we all said a prayer or two. This is when the real wailing was happening. Then a few guys pick up the shovels and started putting the dirt and rocks over the casket right then and there. Five minutes later it was completely covered and the people who hadn’t previously fainted or fallen over and been taken aside (which were most of them) starting slowly shuffling out…

And that was it. From the moment we heard the news at the beach to the moment we returned to NPH after the burial, about seven hours had gone by. That evening there was a big middle school dance (essentially) on site for the visitors and older kids, and things instantly returned to ‘normal’.

Overall, it was quite an interesting experience for me not only from the cultural lens but most importantly from the relationship end. After nearly 16 months with my girls and these kids here, to be included in on something so personal and emotional felt good. In a twisted way, it was an affirmation that all this hard work really does serve a greater purpose. The oldest sibling even came up and timidly thanked me the following day for being with him and his family throughout it all, something I definitely didn’t expect to happen. The whole experience also got me thinking: when you have such limited family, how much MORE does a grandparent mean to you? Finally, I feel even more connected to these kids, which I can’t help but realize means that it’s going to be that much harder to say goodbye in a couple months…

Here’s a few photos from some of the better moments of the week:
Girl's night with STRIPES!! (Technically, this photo is from 2 weeks ago before Milena left!) 
After seeing the screensaver of me with another girl from the house on my computer, Belkis wanted a photo of just the two of us for me to put up!
Happy Birthday Guillermo!
My girls after mass all wearing the clothes that Milena left them!
Chantal...the latest addition to Santa Ana. She's about my age and from Haiti and will be living here for the next few months to learn Spanish!
And...we officially inaugurated a cyber cafe complete with 15 computers for the kids!
Nelly with little Jesus, the newest addition to our NPH family. He's five years old and just got here last week!
Randi!! What a cutie :) You'd be hard pressed to find a happier little boy...
First graders (pictured here: Jaydy and Clarita) and tenth graders were invited to the inauguration!
Yolanda and Estrella trying out the new technology!
My most devoted English student, Crisayda!

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